Site Visit - Mt. Washburn, Yellowstone National Park - July 4-9, 2003

All I had to say to my buddy Tom, was "Road Trip!"   It was a couple of days before the 4th of July and we both wanted to get out of town.  We were planning on renting some jet skis at Lake Mojave, but with the 108 degree heat and the extra time we both had, I suggested we make a go for Yellowstone.  Tom had never been there, and with all this fire training I wanted to see the recovery since the Yellowstone Fires of 1988.  I remember the news reports and since I have been to Yellowstone twice before, I wanted to see for myself the condition of the National Park.
July 4, 2003 - Day 1

We left about 0500 hrs and headed for Vegas.  Wow what a mess.  It took us over 6 hours to get there and the lines at the rest stop bathrooms were at least 150 people long... no lie!  It was so bad on the 15 between Stateline and Vegas that I was actually able to get out of the truck and walk around the car while sitting in the fast lane. (Please don't try this at home.)

On the road to St. George Utah.  We just went through the Virgin River Gorge and wow I never get tired of that drive.  That canyon is great and maybe some winter I'll spend some "cool" time there.  I also love Zion and Bryce canyons and this is the way to get there.
"I'll leave the light on for you..."  Well that's what Tom Bodett says, but my buddy Tom says, "You can't beat the price."  We spend the 4th of July in Ogden Utah and watch random fireworks while we were on the road coming in.  In a way, it looked like Salt Lake City and Ogden were like Baghdad under attack.  This is our morning shot of July 5th as we head to our first destination, The Grand Tetons.
Crossing the plains of Idaho, we take a back highway from I-15 to Soda Springs. This is big country.
Another pic of Tom, this time he is in front of "The World's Only Captive Geyser" (insert sound of giggle here).  We stopped at Soda Springs, Idaho and waited for 40 minutes for this "geyser" to go off.  While we waited we went to the downtown area but because it was 4th of July weekend, most (almost all) of the shops were closed.  We did find an ice cream sunday at a sort-of-bar restaurant and waited for the geyser.  

The towns geyser was created by accident in an attempt to find a hot water source for a swimming pool. On November 30, 1937, the drill went down 315 feet and unleashed the geyser. The extreme pressure is caused by carbon dioxide gas mixing with water in an underground chamber. It is now capped and controlled by a timer. It erupts every hour on the hour (and 4 minutes early). The geyser reaches heights of 150-feet year-round.

Video of uncontrollable laughter here:
MOV01613.MPG 3.1 Mb

On the way to the Grand Tetons, I had to stop by the side of the road for this picture.  One of the goals of the trip is to go ride some horses in Wyoming.  Forest Service Fire Lookouts were often on horseback and since I have been riding horses since a kid, I had the urge to ride again.  

These two horses followed each other and came right up to me, then walked off into the distance together.  I have great respect for horses, their social nature and their intelligence.  They are spiritual animals to me and have such strength, yet at the same time can be fragile.

As we were travelling down by the Snake River, we witness a remarkable sight.  An adult Bald Eagle and a Hawk having a dog fight over the river.

In this picture, the hawk was diving from extreme heights.  In the picture below, the Eagle rolls over and counter attacks the hawk with it's talons.  Yes this picture is right side up!

Such a majestic sight... and the mountains aren't bad too. (oh I'm not that vain. hehehe)   We arrive at the Grand Teton National Park and spend the rest of July 5th just driving around taking a short tour.  The park campgrounds were filling up fast so we make our way to Coulter Bay Campground because that is the only place with some vacant sites in the park.
Time to celebrate!  We order a feast for two (or six really).  Both Tom and I made sure our waiter Mike was having a fun time serving us.  We were there two hours just gorging ourselves  to stave off the hunger of the long drive while the people outside waited for us.  Our busboy Tim came by and asked if he could take some plates and we had to shoo him away.  He was laughing too and couldn't believe we were going to eat it all.  Then came Tanya.  Tanya is from Russia and she is here to work for the summer.  She wants to stay in America so I proposed we get married.  She said "yes!"  We tipped them well and they begged to have us back, but for some reason Tanya didn't get in the car with us.  Oh well.

We get back to camp and hit the sleeping bags.  Just before this picture a female Elk wandered through our campsite.  There was reports of a Grizzly in the area so we kept our camp Bear Safe.

July 6, 2003 - Day 2

In the morning, I get up and see that the campers next door have already left their campsite and wouldn't you know it, their fire pit has ignited again.  Geeeze.  I do the Fire Lookout thing and take over a gallon of water and put it out.  It took only a 1 minute of effort to do and I can't help but wonder why people feel they have to leave a fire to burn out on its own.

Tom and I decide to spend the whole day in the Grand Tetons because of its shear beauty.  Hey, we have no schedule and can do what we want.  So we stop at almost every pull out to just admire the vistas.  We took over 425 picture and another 100 mpg movie files so you are just getting a glimpse.  With all those pictures, I still feel I didn't get enough.  Go figure.
We stop by a lake near the Snake River.  The three birds in the lake are Pelicans!  Yes, Pelicans.  Apparently they come this far inland and we did see a few near Salt Lake back in Utah.
Small male dear running down the side of the road.
Wildlife.  Talk about a spiritual animal.  Here is a great American Bison but we still call them Buffalo.  This great one walked crossed the road in front of us and walked right through the wood fence in the background as if it was made of paper.

I once saw a farmer's sign that said, "If you are fast, you can run across this field in 30 seconds... the buffalo can do it in 10.  Think about it."

As stated, one of the goals was to ride some horses, and so our search for a good horse ride began.  It is Sunday, and most of the places were closed, or they had trail rides with 30 or more people.  Tom and I wanted a one of a kind personal experience so we visited about 6 ranches.  We ate breakfast at a place where this was the view out the window.  

For those with a fast Internet connection, I have included one of my most favorite pictures of the trip at full resolution.

DSC01676.JPG  2.1MB  (use your back button to return)

We found a place called Yellowstone Outfitters and they too were closed for Sunday.  I told the Rancher about me being a Fire Lookout and how I wanted to experience a different kind of ride where we would ride along a high ridge trail that would overlook the area.  He said that sounded interesting and would try to find some Wranglers to take us out.

He found Casey (left) and Teak (Right).  They were waiting to do some labor on another ranch but the guy never came by to pick them up, so they had some time.  I told them about the Lookout plan and they knew where to take us.  They saddled up our horses then got theirs ready.

Casey and Teak were great and living the life.  Both young men that work during the summer and do all sorts of jobs in the Mountains of Wyoming.

Do I look happy?

I didn't say a thing, but I got the White horse.  Go figure that one. (big smile)

This was the first time Tom was ever on a horse and he did great.  We just climbed 1000 feet up the ridge trail and stopped here to give the horses a rest before heading to the top of the ridge.

It was very impressive how these horses at this altitude could climb those trails.  We could really feel the horse power.

I love this picture.  My horse was named "Mailman" and he was very spirited and smart.  I would just point my finger and say, "That way" and he would go.  I didn't need to use the reins too much because he was always looking back at me to see what I wanted next.

However, this horse was hungry like Tom and I was the night before.  He would be walking along and without missing a step, he would pull a plant out by its roots and eat it while walking.  Mailman looked like a farmer with a blade of grass in his mouth at any given time.

I think he liked me because I let him eat so much.

During the ride I did my lookout thing and really got a good feel for what it was like for the Rangers on horseback to patrol the country for smoke.

Casey and Teak were also interested in hearing about the Bark Beetle because I was able to spot about three groves were the Beetle has taken hold.

The Mountain pine beetle, "Dendroctonus ponderosae", attacks lodgepole, ponderosa, limber, and whitebark pines in Wyoming.

Yellowstone National Park, the Bridger-Teton and Shoshone National Forests experienced thousands of whitebark pines and limber pines dying due to activities of this beetle. Mountain pine beetle, along with some forest diseases, are playing a significant role in limber pine and whitebark pine decline on over 58,000 acres of white pines in western Wyoming with an estimated 200,000 trees effected this year.

We climbed about 2000 feet.  You can see the valley below where we started, and the Grand Tetons just behind me.  Yeup, the mounted fire lookout job must have been really something for the men (and maybe women) that did that work.

Tom took this picture from his horse, but in doing so one of his braces on his teeth came off.  (We didn't tell him to never put a horses reins in your mouth, there is so much to know.)

Crossing a wide meadow, we are at the bottom again after almost 3 hours.  We had a wonderful trip down the from the ridge and crossed three streams.  I was close to falling over Mailman's head when in mid stride going down a steep trail, Mailman grabbed a big leaf plant.  Picture that same shot three pics back except going down a steep hill and you can see my path over the horn.  I was able to stand into the stirrups and lean way back to keep from falling.  Mailman looked back at me to see if I was OK.

Tom did great on his ride and he really enjoyed the adventure.  Only after we got back to the stable did we tell him how long it usually takes to learn to ride a horse.   It was a good thing his horse (named "Boomer") didn't do anything like mine on the trail.  Boomer was a gentle horse.

Casey takes care of Mailman and Teak takes care of Boomer.  To both these men I say "Thank you!"

They really went out of their way to give us the Horse Mounted Fire Lookout experience I was hoping to get.  There would have been no way to get this at the other ranches, and even at Yellowstone Outfitters it might have been tough during the weekday.

Thanks again guys!  See ya on the range.

With the "Horse Play" out of the way, we went back to gawking and learning about the nature and history of the Tetons.

Here we stopped at Cathedral Overlook.  Teton is 13,377 feet and towers over the valley floor.  Pictures do no justice, you just have to see it for yourself.

Time to eat again!

This Chili was really good.  We ate outside right on the shores of Jackson Lake.

Back to camp and the end of Day 2.  We decided to stay in the same campsite in the Tetons and then make a reservation for Madison, Yellowstone park.  This will allow me enough time to view the fire areas and visit the Great Geyser basin near Old Faithful.
July 6, 2003 - Day 3

We entered Yellowstone National Park and we had to stop for the Continental Divide.  For some reason this meant a lot for Tom (I'll have to ask him about it later) and he insisted we get the tripod out for this shot.

We are standing on the Pacific side of the divide and just past the sign is the Atlantic side.

Here you can see one of the main fire areas.  The sign lets visitors know that the seedlings were not planted by man, but are growing as part of the natural process that fire plays.
Looking down the canyon, here you can see some of the little trees.  The fires were 15 years ago and these little saplings are doing well.  The Park is different now, and you can actually see more without the tall trees.
This area is doing really well.  There are actually more trees in this picture then the original forest.  Some of the little ones will die off due to competition but many will reach their adulthood.

The fires also burn out the diseased trees, and the burned trees will fall and fertilize the soil.  In the end, the fires are a good thing for the forest, but it is us, that must realize this.

Also, the animals running in panic is a Bambi myth.  In all the fires of 1988, only 250 large animals were lost, not thousands as was reported in the news.  The animals know how to deal with the fire, and some profit by it too.  In fact, this stream has more trout then ever due to the nutrients washed into the stream from above.

Way cool!

This is an Osprey.  The osprey is unique in that it is a hawk in the order of raptors, but it is distinct from other hawks and falcons in several ways.  It has prickly spicules on the feet, which help it grasp slippery fish, to a reversible toe like an owl's. Ospreys also have thin, slit-like nostrils - unique to the species - that close as it dives into water to catch fish.

It was observed that an Osprey was actually attacking the fire when it was getting to close to the nest.  (The article didn't say how the birds attacked the fire, but  I don't think they used a hose.)

Hey don't call me a hot head!

We made it to Old Faithful and watched the first eruption, went to go eat, then watched the second.  

Now... even though you have seen all these pictures, I took about 100 of geysers alone.  So since this web page is about a Fire Lookout adventure, I'm going to skip the geyser shots for these pages.

Hard to believe, but this is a burn area.  The only difference are that the unburned trees are green, and the burned ones are grey.  This kind of fire is good in that it is mixed and patched randomly with old forest.  The treeline is the same.

Meadows also recovered nicely, and in some areas new meadows were created.  This has helped the buffalo and other grazing animals.

It was interesting to see the contrast of the geysers and the burned areas.  Yellowstone is different, not destroyed.  The hills are green not with grass but with baby trees.
No words...
Here again, burn area mixed with unburned give the park a different look.
The geysers sure give a fire lookout like me some double takes as it looks like fresh smoke is just starting in the woods.  Even in the distance there are plumes of steam rising, but it does not take long to get used to the look of the steam.

Earlier there was a fire cloud that started, but ended about an hour later.  Good job to someone out there!

The weather is changing on us and there is a chance of rain for tomorrow.

These trees are not fire victims, but died of acids caused by the geysers.  The sun is setting behind the coming storm front while a couple of geysers are going off towards the right.
End of day 3 in Madison, Yellowstone Park  We sure made the most of this day.  We saw so many geysers, fumerols, mud pits, painter pots, buffalo and so many people we had a fun day, but tomorrow we have the Yellowstone Grand Canyon and the prime objective, Mt. Washburn Fire Lookout.
July 7, 2003

Tom and I get up and pack the tent.  We make our way for our next breakfast stop.  We are on a "road trip" where we just set up for the night and eat our food out.   It is also bear safe to do and does not cost that much more.  It does save more time then you think.

Another waterfall stop.  Yellowstone has many big falls, some that you can hike to also.

Traffic and new trees.  There were some major construction delays and we just sat them out.  

This shot is kind of cool for me because the camper's in the pictures are 1970's vintage and they are just like the ones I came to Yellowstone in with my family.

Breakfast at Yellowstone Grand Canyon Cafe.

Our waitress  (black shirt in background) is another summer student working here for the summer.  She says it snowed about two weeks ago.

The boys in the hood
Ya can't take a bad picture
Elk
Grizzly bear young male
Tom and I prepare for our visit to the Mount Washburn Fire Lookout inside Yellowstone National Park.  The lookout is 3.2 miles away via a winding dirt road.  The weather is cool so I take my wind breaker.  I also use a pair of Leki hiking poles because they help my left knee that I had major surgery on about 2 years ago.
About a half mile up, we look back at the foolish people that are starting to climb up the hill so they can get a picture of the Grizzly Bear.  The bear is near the center left most group of trees shaped like a vee, and the people are far away.  The only problem is, a bear can sprint at 30 mph, and people in grass at best can do 10 mph.  Also, the cars were blocking the road on the grade to the summit.
First look at the tower.  Although from here it is maybe just a mile away, we have about another 2.2 miles of trail to get there.  The summit on the far right has a cut in it as it is also part of the road.
Looking back to the South, we can see the Yellowstone Grand Canyon from here and even the Grand Tetons about 100 miles away.
Uh oh... the temperature has just dropped and there is rain in the distance.  This could effect our hike to the lookout.
With the zoom lens, the tower looks close but it is still very far away.  We decide to keep going and maybe wait out the storm in the tower, which is the safest place to be.
Wow, this storm is moving much faster then a California storm.  The winds are starting to gust and the rains are staying to the West going North.

We seem to be ok still and can make the tower.

According to our waitress at the Grand Canyon Cafe, she said it snowed just about two weeks ago.  This is a huge chunk of snow that is about 2 feet thick.  With my Leki hiking poles it looks like I should have skis too.

You can see that the clouds are getting thicker over the tower in the background.

When Tom and I started the hike, we met a family that was also on vacation.  Todd and Kristi had their daughter Kohlie, their son Ben on a trip from Glacier National Park to Yellowstone.  They wrote us a nice email and I sent them a full size picture.

We walked at different paces so we would play hopscotch on the trail at various times but with my knee surgery, watching those two kids made me work harder to get up that 10,285 foot mountain.

Now on the upper ridge we make one last sprint for the tower while the clouds thicken even more.

We made it!  Making it to the top was very windy and a few rain drops are starting to fall.  The tower has three levels.  The first level is an observation deck for visitors.  Tom reads the sign that says the actual lookout is off limits and decides to stay below while I go on up.  There is an upper outside deck that visitors can go to so I go through the door and climb the stairs to the deck.

To tower is at the upper level above the deck, and when the Lookout sees my Lookout jacket, he comes out of the tower and says, "Are you really from Angeles Forest?"

I say yes and he says, "Go through the gate and get on up here!"

The Official Handshake:

Yosemite National Park and Angeles National Forest Lookout Association

The Lookout's name is Ron Black, I'm Charles White. hehehe  We made a joke of that.  But the real kicker was why Ron was so excited to see me.  As it turns out, Ron started his Forest Service career 40 years ago in the Angeles National Forest.  Over the years he worked many places and was a manager.  Now he and his wife Christine are retired and they are resident in the tower for this fire season.

Both Christine and Ron have a big tower to live in.  The size is about 18x18 compared to my tower of 14x14. It has a double bed, a sewing machine (Christine's), a stove, refrigerator, telephone and a heater.

There are no window shutters but there is some blinds that they can close in (you can see them in the corner).

They said that there are many hikers today and that the storm has them worried.  They were keeping a watch to the West and North where they saw a few lightning strikes.

Their Osborne is the same as ours except with a different map.  Ron told me that when he calls in a fire and gives directions, the pilots of the planes and helicopters will fly right over the tower then fly the direction to the site quite often.

The storm outside is getting worse so Ron and I trade lookout stories while it passes.  He was very interested in our program.  I was also there while he phoned in his weather report and the winds were gusting at 42 mph, that is why the storm was moving so fast.

To the left are two tripods. The little one has the actual web cam that can be viewed from the external link I have provide below:

Mt. Washburn Live Webcam

It looks like there is a break in the clouds but it also looks like there is another wave about to come in, so we say our goodbyes and trade contact information.

I go back down to the visitors observation deck and meet up with Tom.  We sign the guestbook for histories sake with the names of people from all over the world.

It's July and its cold!  As we start hiking down the trail Ron comes out of the tower and yells down another goodbye and safe travel back to Los Angeles.

We say thank you again and start our trek down.  We get wet as it starts raining again but it looks like there is low lightning danger, and with the day getting later there is no guarantee how long this storm will last so we pick up the pace on the way down.

I might be in a hurry, but I love flowers and there is always time to stop and enjoy their beauty, especially in such harsh conditions.

I'm doing a fairly good job of keeping the camera dry.

The light rain is getting lighter but here is a tree that was struck by lightning a few months ago.
This picture is from the summit of the cut (15 pictures ago) looking down at the trail.  The car is at the bottom between this peak and the high peak to the right.  It is still windy and cold but is has stopped raining.
Cool, it looks like the storm is breaking up and very quickly.  What is the old saying?

"If you don't like the weather in Wyoming, just wait a minute."

As I was walking down the road, a 30 lb rock falls from above, rolls across the road and goes down the other side.  I freeze in my tracks thinking it is a rock slide.

I creep up to the area where  the rocks are coming down and to my surprise is a whole family of six cutting the huge switchback from above , knocking out rocks and flowers along the way. (grrrr!)

I told them there are several reasons why this was not a good idea.  It took them a long time that they wasted as a few of the family almost slipped and fell.  What a mess.

Tom and I made it to the bottom and stowed all our hiking gear.  The trip was 6.4 miles and my knee was glowing about level 4 on a scale of 10.  I would not have been able to make it without the hiking poles at all.  They really help.

Here from about five miles away at full zoom we take our last look at Mt. Washburn.  The grey forest is part of the burn area.

We had a great time.  Ron and I would later make a Tower to Tower telephone call in a couple of days.  I have that phone call in my next tower log for July 12-13, but more about that later.

We have lunch at Tower Junction then take the Grand Loop Road to Mammoth Hot Springs.  We crossed the big bridge below and it was very high over the river below.
We get to Mammoth and the Elk are everywhere, even in town.  Here they sit on the dry falls from Mammoth hot springs.
This rock is called Liberty Cap.  The rock is an extinct hot spring cone.
Ahhhhhhhhhh!

Ghosts in the rocks.

At the visitor center was a cool map showing all the fire burn areas from the Summer of 1988.
The last picture from Yellowstone was this increadible encounter between me and this little rabbit.

In summary, I think the fires of Yellowstone have really helped save the park for future generations.  I saw areas of unburned areas where there were old sick trees.

The fire fighting effort was the largest in the nation at the time and the fires were not put out until the rains came in September and October.

Thank you Yellowstone, see you again!

Tom and I decided that our trip was complete and since it was early we would put some extra miles on for home, so rather than stay in the park we would make our way for Idaho Falls via Highway 20.

We had a great sunset to the West (below) and we were able to see the backside of the Tetons.

July 8, 2003

We spend the night at Motel 6 in Idaho Falls and make a break South.  We pass by all the towns and farms.

Going through Salt Lake City, Utah I was amazed at how large the city has become.  Here is a picture of the Utah Railway that services the nearby mines.

It seems Salt Lake now has a smog problem too.

From a distance I did spot smoke and took out my maps.  I did a smoke check in the car while driving and later when we got close to the fire we could see that it was a grass fire in the hills just south of Provo.  It was under control.
On the way near Southern Utah, we ran into a dust devil storm.  We counted six of them at once and drove through one of them that was clear.  It really shook the truck up.

We also past a Utah Highway patrol doing 73 mph and I panicked for a minute.  Tom reminded me I was still 2 mph UNDER the 75 mph speed limit.  That was cool.

The last look at Utah just North of St. George.

We went though the following states in order:

California, Nevada, Arizona, Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Montana

Coming into Las Vegas Tom said, "Ah... home again".

I told him we are still 300 miles from home but he said something I have always felt too.  "Yeah true, but it's like we are now in our own back yard."

We loved the trip.  We got home about 10pm when I dropped Tom off.  I got home about 2 hours later and slept all day Thursday.

Didn't have too much time off because I had to get ready for my Tower duty for July 12.

Thanks for reading our adventure.

-Charley

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